Roadside stalls: 40 years of lively and rolling

Source: Surging News

Author: Chen Yue

Few people will bring their own tables and chairs for interviews.

Because "there are many meters of noodles in the house, it is not easy to entertain guests." Wu Penggao, Yuan Guihua couples, and surging news reporters met at the intersection.Wu Peng Gao rode an electric car, carrying a folding table, 4 plastic stools, trunk and three bottles of mineral water.

Since 1979, Wu Penggao has been selling ravioli in Shanghai for more than 40 years. Yuan Guihua married him and became a person, or a roadside stall.From the turbulent Huangpu City to the quiet street corner of Yangpu District, from picking up a burden to small carts, large wheels, from ravioli to fried rice, fried noodles, fried annual cakes, fan soup, etc.Similarly, a bowl rose to 10 yuan, and the night stall was a career for the couple for a lifetime.

"We have seen anyone who has set up a stall, and there are fresh ones every day." Recalling the golden years, the couple grabbed happily and said, ""Come here for a taxi", "Foreign guests take pictures with us, eat our ravioli", it was around the 1990s to the millennium.Some of their stories are shared on the Internet platform. The guests followed the navigation late at night and even line up on the weekend.

Days and nights, they are going to run when they see the urban management, and the night stalls are almost the same.The couple also understood, "If you have a tight management, we will consciously stop for a few days. In the past few years, we have been in control. I haven't done it for a few months last year and the previous year." In the past few months, the stalls have stopped.The car is patrolling nearby every night. There are often guests who call to ask the stalls. The couple complained to find ways to find ways, and they can sleep at two or three in the morning.

68 -year -old Wu Penggao has already had white hair, and Yuan Guihua, 61, looks younger. For decades, their work and life have been swaying.Wu Penggao was born in Shanghai, and most of his life was here. He had followed his parents to Anhui to support farmers. In order to hukou and livelihood, he tossed for decades. After 60 years of age, more job opportunities also closed the door.

The first interview is where the stalls are set. The sidewalks are wide, and the surrounding residential areas and shops are mainly. There are very few people in the morning on the morning.Putting the tables and chairs and water on the side, the couple talked to the reporter. The security guards of the nearby units in the past three hours came three times.At night, I put it on the day, and the leader just said from this. "Wu Penggao responded," Where is it, we are chatting ", but we still put away the folding table and the three bottles of water were transferred to the plastic stool.

In the morning when the weather is comfortable, if they can go out of the stall normally, the two should be sleeping at this moment. They did not get up until one or two in the afternoon. Then Zhang Luo bought vegetables to buy goods and welcome them late at night.The stall stopped, and the urban management found that the house was not allowed to set up, and the income stopped.This happened many times.

The former glory

The surname of the stall.During the Republic of China, six grandfather (Note: Grandpa and his brothers) of Wu Penggao sold six soldiers in Nanjing, and his father did it.Later, his father went to the army as a soldier. After liberation, he settled in Shanghai and settled in Shanghai. He was born in Yangpu.

In the 1960s, 9 -year -old Wu Penggao and his parents and brothers moved to the agriculture of Anhui. The house was mortgaged to the neighbors for one or two hundred yuan, and the family's hukou also moved from Shanghai to Rural Anhui.

In 1979, Wu Penggao returned to Shanghai.The neighbors had passed away at that time, and it was difficult to confirm the mortgage of houses. Without a house, no one could hang, they could not be settled, nor did they work.Selling the ravioli is a family biography technology. Wu Penggao began to pick a burden. From Pentagon to Guoquan Road and Tongji University, he picked up three places one night. Young and powerful are not tired and maintain a basic life.

In the 1980s and 1990s, the ship was an important way of transportation. The wife Yuan Guihua was a boat from Anqing to Shanghai.

"At that time, it was Nanshi District, and now called Huangpu District. It was done at the pier, and it was placed there day and night. Oh, there are people! At that time, there were people who did it." Wu Peng Gao recalled that the business was booming.At that time, the couple pushed a small car and a stall, only operating the size of the size.

With the development of traffic, the waterway gradually declined, and the passenger flow of the sixteen shop pier faded.The couple moved to the South Road, Yunnan East Road, Jinling East Road. At that time, Shanghai Food Street, the nearby Shanghai big world tourists, such as weaving, Huaihai Road is lively.It is very prosperous. "Wu Penggao said," There are very wide contacts there, and there are many tourists at home and abroad. As soon as people visit people from all over the country, they are very lively. The place is lively overnight. "

Summer night, the stalls are often surrounded by cold people."Xiao Yan is here, come, let things open." When the couple went out of the stall, the people along the street shouted to freely free up the space.Essence

With the old changes in Huangpu District, there are fewer and fewer residents nearby, but the prosperity is still.The couple witnessed the high -rise buildings of Huaihai Road from scratch. More importantly, many migrant workers also came to eat ravioli.The stalls are getting bigger and bigger, adding fried noodles, casserole, etc., and then changed to large wheels. "The business of that era was better than now." The two were very busy.

"Do dozens of dollars in one night (earning) dozens of dollars. At that time (1990s), the money was worth the money, and renting a house was also cheap. Rent 60 yuan a month in Nanshi District, but it was also simple.The house. At that time, the coal stove was burned. Everyone was a small stove to cook rice. There was a small piece of stoves around the entrance of the corridor. The landlord's house was burning there.explain.

The testimony of the golden age in her mobile phone -a photo with the guests.After the return of Hong Kong in 1997, Hong Kong college students went to Shanghai to play. They saw that the stalls were very rare. After taking a photo at the stall, she took the initiative to send her photos to her.She gave the address but didn't take it seriously. "I didn't expect him to mail it. I received the photo and I was so happy. I said that Hong Kong people are so good. I can really trust it., But few people leave a photo for us. "

There are also foreign guests who wash them directly to them in Shanghai.The opening of Shanghai around the millennium was lively, and Wu Peng was proud of the stalls.

"Huaihai Road is there, and it is close to Xintiandi. Every year, stars have a concert in the artificial lake in Xintiandi (Taiping Bridge). Wow, that person is incredible! We set up a stall, as soon as the concert is over,Jinling passers -by can't move, traffic control, no cars, all are people. It's too lively! There are big worlds and people's squares. They are all played. There are many tourists at home and abroad. "Wu Penggao recalled that he was full of memories.

Later, there was a song and dance hall in the stall -king of K Songs, and many stars joined.The couple did not pay special attention, but how much they would hear which star came. In Wu Peng Gao's memory, "Sometimes the red carpet is paved., Both are blocked at the door of the king of K song. The young girls are very excited and lively. "

Yuan Guihua added that at that time, the stalls near the residential area could be set up at 5 or six in the evening, and they would not leave the stall until 90 o'clock in the evening, otherwise there was no place for passenger flow. "That place was really light.Glory. "

Stove another stove

In 2016, the city's rectification intensity increased, and the night stalls were also collected by urban management.Although the urban management returned the equipment later, Wu Penggao's ravioli business stopped.The family lived in Huangpu for another year, and sometimes worked in zero workers.

hopeless.In 2018, they returned to Yangpu District and found the current intersection. "It is not so smooth, oftenrest.There are major activities in the country, and we will stop consciously for a few days.In the past few years, it has been very powerful, and I have stopped for a few months last year and the previous year."Wu Penggao said.

No more quiet after the site selection at night, there are few people and few people, and there are only a few restaurants and hotels on the lights.

Most of the customers learned from the Internet that Wu Penggao's stalls came from Songjiang, Chongming, and Qingpu from dozens of kilometers away. There are also foreign people far away. After the Spring Festival this year, there are young people from Suzhou and Wuxi.Some came from Shenzhen to take a plane. "After getting off the plane, they called us, and their luggage was dragged on the stall."

There are past mature customers who recognize them online and come to taste the taste of the year.There are also nearby residents, and sometimes they look at them out of the stall, and run home after half an hour."Many guests aunts are short and short, and in the present words, they are 'fans', and I believe in us very much. We do n’t know some returning guests, and we take the initiative to tell us." Yuan Guihua said that it still likes it for decades.Some customers grow from children to adulthood.

The stalls have four or five small tables every night, and they are usually full on Friday and Saturday.When the business is good, customers will spontaneously lined up and have to wait for one or two hours.

There is also a barbecue stall next to each other, each does business, and customers sometimes order them together.The chickens and shops across the road are also open very late, closing at about three or four in the morning.

At around 4 am, the couple were ready to collect the stalls, clean the kitchenware, and rinse the ground. The battery car was transported back and forth a few times, at least 5:30 to go home.If it is summer, it will be bright.Go home to wash theory. You can't use it to enter the refrigerator in the refrigerator. You can sleep at eight or nine o'clock.

It is already one or two in the afternoon.Wu Peng Gao went to the market for the supermarket, Yuan Guihua packed at home. He needed to buy online for the child to help buy it.Yuan Guihua first wrapped 10 bowls of ravioli at home, and the rest was now packaged at the booth.According to the patrol time of urban management, they usually leave the stall after 10:30 pm. A stall can sell more than a dozen varieties, noodles, fried noodles, thickness fans, fried rice, ravioli, etc.Essence

The cooker is a charcoal coal stove. When the fire is raw, the young people passing by are always curious and take pictures around.During the stall career, the gas has been burned for more than ten years. Wu Penggao also has a gas card. Each time he rode a bike to the gas company, it can save 5 yuan for transportation fees.Later, the gas was not allowed to burn gas on the street. The liquefied gas jar was confiscated, and the coal stove was changed again. Now it has become a nostalgic rare thing.

For the night stalls of the couple, the Internet is mixed.Yuan Guihua understands: "There are so many delicious shops outside. Why do you come to us from a long distance? Some people are nostalgic, just like this atmosphere. Some guests say that 100 yuan for a taxi to eat 30 yuan.We are here. Another guest brought a friend for the first time, and the second wife and children brought. "

How to make a living

Swing stalls, inseparable from "guerrillas".

"The urban management knows where there is a stall. When we see them coming, we run away quickly. The guests can't take care of us, and run the car and run." Yuan Guihua said, this kind ofThere have been many times.In October and November 2022, the stalls were collected twice, and even the clothes on the battery car were confiscated. The urban management said that a fine.Affected by the epidemic sealing and control, the stall was closed for 7 months and could not pay for it. He had to rely on an electric car at home, and Wu Penggao bought another one.

The couple also thought about stability.In 1996, they borrowed money to rent the facade near the branch road of Huangpu District, and they still did a ravioli business. The shop was decorated and opened.The lawsuit tossed for several years, and did not fall, and the couple had no confidence in renting shops.

At that time, the stalls were relatively free, not allowed during the day, and it was possible at night.There are patrol police and joint defense teams on the street, similar to the current urban management role.The couple tried to fixed the booth as much as possible to facilitate the finding customers. At that time, it was not like you can call at any time.

In March of this year, the urban management arrived at home notifying that they were not allowed to set up a stall. Remote monitoring could be shot clearly, and it was useless to find running away.At home, a basket of rice, beer, ham sausage, mineral water, and napkin paper are all needed.

The surrounding facade has also been inquired. The price is appropriate and there are very few catering.There are many stores in Yangpu Rong Road Street located downstairs in the residents. Even if a window is "door", the rent is cheap but cannot operate catering. There are several stalls along the street in the neighboring vegetable market, more than a dozen square meters, a monthly rent of 5,000 yuanOn the left and right, breakfast mainly sells cooked food or green onion cake soup bag. There is no vacancy at present; the restaurants opposite the stalls have been operating for more than 10 years, and the monthly rent is 15,000.10,000 yuan.

What about other jobs?When the epidemic was serious in 2020, the business could not do it. The couple went to the community service center to register to find a job.Some colleges and universities recruited cleanliness. As long as they are under 60 years old, Wu Peng is too old and failed to accept. At that time, Yuan Guihua was recruited at the age of 58.

"We rent a house 2200 (dollars), and I will only be 2470 yuan to work. How can I maintain my life." Yuan Guihua said that after the stalls were relaxed, she helped the family business while watching it.At 2 am, go to work at 6 am, and get off work at 4 pm.Later, she was going to serve her daughter -in -law to confine, and she simply resigned clean up the cleaning work.Now even cleaning is very old.

Can't get out of the stall, and the couple can't sleep.Go to the old position every night. The urban management cars are stopped there, and sometimes they are around; go to other places to see if there is a stall, there is a suitable facade, "Two times every night, two or threeWhen you come back to sleep, you ca n’t sleep in a hurry, you will go out and turn around, or you will drive a little farther when you drive the battery car. "Wu Peng's brows were locked, and someone called every day to ask the stall.I want to keep the customers' hope for me. "

Swing half of life

"It is difficult for our family's basic life, just rely on this (stall)."

Wu Penggao's mother is 93 years old, and the two brothers can still take care of it; the father has long been there, and Yuan Guihua has never seen it. A pair of children have been in Shanghai from kindergarten to university.However, after the son was infected with the crown disease last April, his physical condition was very poor. He was afraid of cold and sweating. "He helped him to wash the sweatshirt all day long."Also called the emergency department several times because of the heartbeat, and have not found the cause of many Chinese and Western hospitals in the past year.The grandson is more than 2 years old, and his daughter -in -law has not been at home since she became pregnant.

The family is responsible for economic pressure."I could n’t do business almost a year last year. I had no savings. My son was sick and had to rent a house. It was more than 60,000. Relatives were funded.Last year, tens of thousands were funded, "Yuan Guihua said.

In the 1960s, the Wu Penggao family went to the countryside to Anhui, and all the hukou moved out. So far, they have not been able to fall back to Shanghai, which also means that they cannot enjoy the relevant treatment of Shanghai.

After returning to Shanghai in 1979, Wu Peng occasionally returned to Anhui to see. In 1983, he was introduced to know Yuan Guihua and married two years later.Yuan Guihua remembers that her marriage is a quilt pillow, a five -drawer cabinet, and a large box of clothes. The Wu family "has nothing".

"I still quarrel with him now. He promised me at the beginning. He said that now it is difficult and nothing. In the future, we will wait for our conditions.Yuan Guihua said.Wu Penggao smiled bitterly, "There is still nothing until now."

After the Wu family returned to Shanghai, I took a temporary settlement on Gunding RoadSon, go to the neighbor's house to mention the tap water, order the kerosene lamp, and then pull the electric light from the electric pole.The house was dismantled, the position was moved, and the right place was found for the third time. At this time, it was 2008.The husband and wife Wu Peng left the house when Huangpu set up a stall. The elder brother was not good at his body and did not have a family. He had always lived with his mother, relying on a few brothers to subsidize life.

"(We) do a little business in a small business, and there is no own home. I move to the east today and move to the west tomorrow. I have moved my own daily necessities.I spent this way. "Yuan Guihua could still think of it in the winter of 1995. When her daughter was born on the fifth day of the first month, she was still pushing the stalls to do business.Crooked, nothing can be rely on. "

After her daughter was born in Shanghai, she rarely returned to her mother's house for three or two years.She has seven brothers and sisters, and there are always people at home in the New Year.Later, her mother died, and she returned less. "Whoever gets married, go back, and go back, because there is no real own home, she hasn't returned for several years."

In order to settle in, the three brothers of the Wu family bought a set of second -hand houses in the Pentae Around 2001, applying for a house for more than a dozen people in the family, and then there was no audio.Mother and elder brother now live there.I have tossed the household registration for many years, and they have not been approved by the back and forth, and then the police station will not even receive the application.

The family is still a rural household registration in Anhui today.The house in the countryside is a mud brick wall. After returning to Shanghai, the tiles on the roof leak rain and the house has collapsed for many years.

"Difficult" seems to have not changed for decades. Only when they talked about the stalls, the couple laughed.

"I felt embarrassed at the beginning of doing business. From the countryside, I suddenly went to this big city. At first I pushed the stalls. I felt very awkward and difficult to feel affection.It doesn't matter if you walk on the street. I have seen anyone, and there are freshness every day. I think this kind of life is also very good. "Yuan Guihua still has expectations. If the current location is illegal, can the government designate whether the government can designateLet them set up a legal place.

The fun of doing business, they also like to talk to their children.In 2022, the son helped them share some stories on the Internet, summarizing the thirty or forty years of the swaying.Those who get off work are also a kind of happiness. "